No Costa Rica adventure would be complete without a trip to the beach and ours was no different. The Costa Ballena (whale coast) region, on the south Pacific coast, fit into our itinerary perfectly. And, with its laid-back surf vibe combined with rainforests that meet the sea, it was just right for us. The main towns are Dominical, Uvita and Ojochal but we stayed near the formed, in a little area called Dominicalito.
Our stay, in the middle of our road trip, was intended to be a relaxing few days between busier stages of the holiday, having just visited Monteverde and Manuel Antonio National Park. It was perfect for that, partly because of the beaches but also – largely – because of our beautiful accommodation. We stayed in an Airbnb apartment with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a spacious living area, outdoor seating including a hammock, and access to a shared pool.
There were monkeys in the trees directly outside on our arrival, although we didn’t see them again, and a very noisy toucan bellowing from a tree one evening. Iguanas, stick insects and hummingbirds were also garden visitors.
There are so many activities you can do in the area, such as Alturas Wildlife Sanctuary, Hacienda Baru Wildlife Refuge, Nauyaca waterfall hike, whale watching in Uvita, Marino Ballena National Park, SCUBA diving, snorkelling and kayaking. However, we stuck with slowing down, relaxing and letting the kids recharge at the beach and in the pool (which they were obsessed with!).
Here are the beaches we visited:
Playa Linda
A beautiful, quiet and un-touristy black volcanic sand beach known for its dangerous riptides. You pull your car up onto the top of the beach under the palm trees and, just like the locals, set out your picnic or BBQ and relax in the shade. Pelicans fly overhead, dipping into the sea for fish, and sloths or monkeys can be spotted in the trees (though we weren’t that lucky).
Dominical
Great year-round for surfers, backed by rainforest and has a very chilled out, bohemian vibe. There are several small bars, restaurants and handicraft souvenir vendors. We visited only for an evening stroll and the kids loved the little playground – one of my least favourite activities as a parent at home but absolutely not a chore on a sunny evening under the shade of palm trees!
Dominicalito
Another beautiful and peaceful beach but with calmer water and less amenities. We’d brought a picnic but, if you don’t, there are a few small, family-owned restaurants and shacks (snacks) to choose between. Along the beach is a river’s mouth which was a pretty area and good fun for a paddling adventure though water shoes are recommended.
In Dominical, you’ll find a great selection of cafes, restaurants and bars. We very much enjoyed our visit to La Junta Dominical and also sampled a very reasonably priced plate of comida tipica (traditional Costa Rican food including rice, beans, grilled chicken, salad, sweet plantains, avocado) at Delicias. There’s at least one large supermarket on the main road where you can buy pretty much anything you’d need. We self-catered for ease in the evenings, and enjoyed the novelty of having a blender to make our own tropical fruit smoothies!
That pretty much sums up our time in the Dominical area but, before signing off, I’ll just share an absolute hidden gem of a place we stopped at on the six-hour drive to our next destination. It was the only really long journey of the adventure and involved a huge increase in altitude and a drive through the clouds. It was great to see a different landscape.
Descending into the San Gerardo de Dota Valley, we pulled in at the unassuming Miriam’s Quetzals. Climbing out of the car, stretching after a long stint on the road, we weren’t sure what to expect as we headed through the bright and airy café and out onto the back veranda. But we were met with such a magical sight! Tall aguacatillo trees, colourful flowers, feeding stations and a full rainbow of exotic birds! Naturally we watched and photographed for ages. Here’s a little gallery including flame-coloured tanagers (yellows are female and oranges are males), acorn woodpeckers, a blue-grey tanager and, of course, plenty of hummingbirds.
The girls ate their picnics while Dean and I each had a set menu of comida tipica with accompanying drinks and a very unusual dessert. Then it was off to Poas!
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All information is correct at the time of posting. Follow us on Instagram @four_go_exploring for more independent family adventures.
In case you missed them, here’s how the earlier destinations in the trip unfolded:
Rincon de la Vieja National Park
Check back for soon to read about our final Costa Rican destination: Selva Verde Lodge in Sarapiqui and a guide covering accommodation and loads of practical information to help you plan a visit!
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